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The project Kullamannen began on the return flight from the Ultra X Jordan in Wadi Rum. Two races could hardly be more different. One in the scorching desert heat over 5 days and 225 kilometers – the other around the same time (November) in already chilly Sweden along the Kattegat over 104 kilometers. In our desert community, only Joe was willing to engage. Hesitant and uncertain, but at least interested.
Time was pressing, though, because the Kullamannen entry slots fill up quickly, especially for the long distances – once Tier 2 and 3 are gone, it’s sold out. Joe agreed, even though he truly didn’t know what it entailed. For him, Sweden probably meant Pippi Longstocking with moose, IKEA, and cinnamon buns.
Joining us was also Daniel, the trail-running federal police officer I had already taken to my heart after two races at Mountainman. Number three was Charlotte, my wife, with a clear statement: “You’re not going to Sweden without me!” You don’t argue with that, because Lotte speaks Swedish, loves running through the countryside, and has loved the country since her youth. Since we were already planning to vacation in Sweden, it seemed inevitable.
We registered as soon as the registration opened in 2023, booked a holiday home in the finish town of Båstad, and trained for it. But things didn’t go as planned. Daniel’s serious knee injuries prevented him from starting. Lotte withdrew three weeks before the start with a thigh strain. And, as if it weren’t enough, I myself came down with shingles at the same time – just when I was in peak condition. When the doctor told me, I had no idea what to expect or whether it would be over in three weeks. Friends’ stories offered little hope and rather grim forecasts of a long pause. Joe wasn’t feeling well either, suffering from a creeping infection. Luckily, a week before the start, we both got the all-clear, still weak but alive.
So, the day before the race, Lotte, Joe, and I were sitting at the Munich airport gate waiting to check in. Lotte as support, Joe and I with ambitious plans to rock this race, no matter what. And then suddenly, this one person appears, shakes our hands, and says: “I’m coming with you!” Daniel! Just off duty, now suddenly on our stage, grinning mischievously.
“How are you coming with us?” I blurted out, followed by, “You’re messing with us!” He wasn’t – and Lotte knew it, albeit at the last minute. This wild spirit had booked a far-too-expensive ticket just before departure to join us, crew, and even surprise another runner (Thomas, 100M). I was speechless. What a cool, selfless guy!
So the four of us flew to Gothenburg, got a rental car upgrade (of course a Volvo), and settled into a small villa in Båstad.
Day 1 – 30 Hours Before the Start
The guys moved upstairs; Lotte and I stayed below. The chemistry was perfect! Hilarious banter, a ridiculous joke after another. Exploring the town (Lotte and I had previously run the 57K course in summer), Joe and Daniel seemed equally excited about the country, the people, and even grocery shopping. While we joked about the 50/50 ground beef-Bolognese (50% cauliflower), the guys experimented with local foods and happily practiced their new “Swedish.”
An easy 7k run in the evening along the “last mile” before the finish got Joe and me in race mode – and scared us a little. A nasty trick, taking runners back out of town for another 6k stretch. Not looking forward to that on Friday! The evening ended with more verbal nonsense, laughter, and exhaustion. What a team!
I went to bed at 10:00 pm, aiming to wake at 3:30 am. Possibly a bit of pre-race nerves, though I didn’t really feel it.
Day 2 – Race Day
It’s All Saints’ Day, and we could finally pick up our race packets. A day earlier would’ve been easier for everyone, dear Per, but okay. We walked 2 km to the race center, joining a line of eccentric folks – long beards, flip-flops, shorts, and tiny veggie bags for mandatory equipment. The participants couldn’t have been more diverse, yet most shared the same passion.
At the door, we met Karina, who accompanied us to the distant counter. She’s determined to secure a UTMB main event spot by qualifying directly. Last year she ran the 57K race and placed 4th. This year, she’s aiming for the 100K – Top 3 is the goal. A bold plan, competing against athletes like Judith Wyder, Yngwild Kaspersen, or Nicole Kessler. But why not? On a 100K, anything can happen.
The counter was reached. Two stern-looking inspectors scanned our QR codes, compared IDs, and didn’t even want to check our carefully packed backpack – already compared 400 times to the mandatory list. They seemed barely older than 12, performing their task as if they’d been doing it since elementary school. Fine, then not. The drop bag was quickly filled and handed in.
Race organizer Per Sjögren roamed the hall, greeting runners personally. Lovely to see such accessibility.
Until departure at 8:00 pm (we took a rental car instead of the bus), we tried to relax, attempt a power nap, and re-evaluate clothing choices: too cold? too warm? just right? Yesterday’s forecast predicted gusts up to 65 km/h from SW to W, calming around 10 pm. With a North-Northeast to East direction until 2:30 am, the wind might even help. Today’s updated forecast said otherwise: gusts remained until 2:30 am, now from the north. Perfect – but that’s coastal Sweden and the mountains; anything can happen.
The 30-minute power nap failed. Didn’t sleep, but whatever. We ate all the carbs we had stocked, maxed out our energy stores. Earlier in the week, we ate lots of fish and protein, fewer carbs, and skipped coffee to boost the effect of caffeine sports nutrition. From Thursday, it was energy-rich food, plus fresh sushi for me – risky but mood-lifting.
At 4:00 pm, four buses carrying the 100-mile runners passed by at 5-minute intervals. Daniel was already at the start in Höganäs, cheering for his friend Thomas. Then he spent time until our arrival at the starting point.
We arrived shortly before 9:00 pm, pleased to see a large parking lot near the sports hall and race briefing. One of the race directors spoke about the iconic course, sheep and cows (leave them alone), wind, varying terrain, and a consolation teddy bear for those who drop out. We didn’t want teddy bears – we wanted metal.
After the briefing, it was time to line up. One last photo of Joe, Karina, and me – and into the starting formation.
This race isn’t just a number in the UTMB World Series – it’s family, it’s different, it’s rough, cold, and windy – and it opens its arms if you accept all of it and are ready to be a Swede at the Kullamannen. Everything that came before feels different after the Kullamannen.
— Ingo Kruck, November 2024
Through the Storm Gusts to Mölle – The First 12K
The silly “Three, two, one – run” line, which in past years had been such an understated start, had been replaced by something else. I’ve forgotten what. You’d expect a massive cannon shot rather than this gentle nudge across the start line. Probably the horse would throw the knight off and bolt, which might be good for the drama, but likely undesirable.
Caught up in the scenery, I forget to start my watch, but remember after 100 meters. The long line of runners winds out of town toward the coast, the knight leading the way at first until he disappears, leaving us to the wind and weather of the Kattegat. We quickly get acquainted with the reality from the latest weather forecast. Waves are breaking very close to the beach, white foam crowns visible in the pale new moonlight. Could be wildly romantic—if we were standing there with a hot cup of tea. But we’re not. We’re running straight into the storm gusts, which are much stronger than we expected in the town center. Now the game has really begun. I remember my race plan, which aimed to keep a pace of 6:00 over the first 12K of mostly well-maintained, often paved beach path—steady, but not sleeping at the wheel. For Joe, the pace is slow; for me, almost the same. We get overtaken by a ton of runners. Tough to stay steady and maintain your own rhythm. By the time we reach Mölle, I’ll have criticized our pace at least ten times and warned us to be careful. Joe goes along with it, which makes me very happy—we can stay together and enjoy the Kullamannen adventure as a team.
Since the route passes through several villages on the way to Mölle, there’s plenty going on even at this early hour. Kids want high-fives, adults drum and shout “Heja! Heja!” and we occasionally see costumed jokers dancing to rhythmic beats blasting from Bluetooth speakers. This is fun. Along the way, short sections on the Kattegatleden trail give our first contact with sand; we run through some bushes, over cobblestones, and across small bridges. Essentially, the Kattegatleden and Skåneleden trails form the main race route, sprinkled with a few wilder sections—but especially behind the Kullaberg, the Skåneleden often becomes rugged enough to make running challenging.
We arrive in Mölle after 1:05 hours, averaging a pace of about 5:55, slightly below plan but acceptable. The still-powerful gusts haven’t slowed us down, but they’ve cost us energy. We now pass through Mölle, though unfortunately not by the picturesque harbor that we loved exploring last year when I was still debating whether running here was a good idea. Tonight, we’ll only conquer the extended ridge of the Kullaberg, skipping the single trails with their often muddy surfaces up to the lighthouse. The abseiling down the cliffs and climbing back up remains reserved for the 100-milers.
Before the initial steep climb of the Kullaberg, we pass a parking lot filled with runners’ crew members. Lotte and Daniel are there too, momentarily blinded by the headlamps. A few quick words as we pass, and we disappear into the forest trail of the Kullaberg.
Some kilometers further up, deep in the dark forest beyond civilization, two dancing older ladies stand adorned with Christmas tree decorations and flashing red LEDs, a ghetto blaster thumping loud techno beats, and their shouts of “Heja!” push us forward. By now, nothing surprises us anymore. The Swedes! So awesome!
Two Checkpoints and One Airborne Phase with a Hard Landing
The previously relatively compact field immediately spreads out dramatically; the chatter from earlier gives way to a tense silence as we climb the hill. Only the first part—about 200 meters—is quite steep; after that, it follows the entire ridge and descends to the coast at Arild. On this section, we noticeably gained positions and recognized a few faces who had overtaken us before Mölle.
Now, we follow the Skåneleden along the water to the first aid station (AS). Those unfamiliar with the area encounter the wild trail for the first time, winding along the water over fields of broken stone, sandy patches, and marshy meadows with rickety bridges and livestock gates. It becomes more demanding, and from here on, one must pay much closer attention to the ground; otherwise, injury—or even race-ending mishaps—await. A stone can quickly slip sideways under your shoe, or you might step into a gap or hole, and that’s it. Even this night, this section will see a number of DNFs due to exactly such accidents. Falls are not rare at Kullamannen—they are the norm.
At kilometer 24.4, we reach Svanshall, the first AS at the harbor. A few tables, drinks, and two boxes of Swedish pastries loaded with sugar and oats await. I refill one of my two bottles with Squeezy Energy Drink powder from my belt and grab some cookies. Joe finishes at the same time, and after about 30 seconds, we’re on our way again. I like that. I’m quite competitive and don’t like wasting time, especially not so soon after just 24K.
Joe seems to have developed a love affair with the Swedish cookies, inhaling them; he asks if I have any left. I gladly hand him one since I’m not a fan of so much butter and sugar. Less than two minutes later, my stomach protests: “Hands off that stuff!” Fifteen minutes of rumbling, and it’s okay again. Lesson learned. Our race plan is still going well. We continue at a relaxed pace of about 6:15 per kilometer along the bay to the large AS 2, where our drop bags await.
In the marshy terrain, a few groups of runners have gathered, hopping over countless muddy puddles. Ahead of me runs Joe, still proud of his snow-white, nearly new Salomon trail shoes. Correction: he was proud. The next mud puddle belongs to him, and now it’s finally over with pristine shoes. The one after that is mine, and I feel water seeping into my shoe.
We cross a long but quite delicate hanging bridge made of aluminum panels over a river. If four people walk across out of sync, the bridge can lose its stability and start to tip. Unpleasant, especially when you can follow in slow motion what’s about to happen. Fortunately, the bridge ends before any disaster occurs.
We climb a slope, run 50 meters along a main road, then dive back into the trail. Shortly afterward, we disappear into a dark forest. For the last two kilometers, I had set the pace for the group but now let Joe take the lead again, feeling I had been going too fast. The forest floor is covered in thick leaf litter, obscuring the ground. Tricky running conditions, as there are often scattered stones.
I now notice something in my right eye—probably an eyelash or dirt. My right vision is blurry, affecting depth perception. In the dim light, it’s a real handicap.
While I’m still figuring out the problem and overtaking the group ahead, I crash into a root hidden in the leaves, which treacherously trips me from behind. The airborne phase was surprisingly elegant, spinning right over the longitudinal axis. The landing, however, resembled a Lufthansa plane’s touchdown the previous day in Gothenburg: hard and wobbly! Especially hard on my right elbow, which hit another root specializing, apparently, in dispatching trail runners. First thought: it’s broken for sure! Darkness surrounds me, and light flashes sync with the pain. My Petzl headlamp flew off my head but survived intact.
Joe witnessed the most unpleasant part of my performance from the moment I landed and asks about my condition. I can only manage a “I’m fine!” and keep running while checking for fractures with my left hand. Nothing obvious. My arm barely moves without pain, but there’s no choice. I’ll have to examine it properly at AS 2.
The eye problem is becoming annoying. What on earth is in there? It doesn’t hurt, but the vision isn’t usable.
I can clearly see a suddenly passing runner—a Viking shieldmaiden, Lagertha-style (from the TV series Vikings). Blonde braids, athletic, short shorts, far less dressed than we are. Impressive.
We slightly slow our pace, and Joe calculates a 6:30 pace to AS 2. Surprising me—I had planned 6:20. At kilometer 33, we both seem to hit a low point—a typical distance for lows, as any long-distance runner knows. After two kilometers, I’m past it; Joe still struggles and now has another need: a bathroom break. Not convenient for me, as I don’t want two stops. I delay him with the classic parental question: “Can you hold it a little longer?” He agrees, and we continue. New plan: handle it during an incline, where the pace is naturally slower, so we don’t lose sight of the group. The urgency grows, and after about ten minutes, I give in to Joe before he gets too aggressive with his back, letting the overtaken group pass again. At least we stay near the end of the group and quickly get back in the race.
About a kilometer before AS 2, we enter a creepy young birch forest, particularly dark and bare. As the lead runner of our group, I expect a fall any moment and lift my legs higher than necessary. In the forest, a few figures with lights appear silently; maybe to carry fallen runners or guide the lost. Or perhaps foraging for hallucinogenic mushrooms at 2:30 a.m.
After leaving this forest of lost souls, we approach what looks like a highly organized AS. A glance at the watch confirms it: almost 45K done. Warm food, lots of supplies, our drop bags, and seats await.
The covered area has numerous benches, where 40–50 runners lounge—eating, drinking, changing, or coping with the threshold of exhaustion. While I scout and find my drop bag, Karina appears, eyes wet, visibly upset. She tells me about two ankle rolls and shows her swollen ankle. It looks painful. The medic gave her the choice: continue at your own risk (bad idea) or DNF. I can only offer a comforting hug and confirm that withdrawing is the wiser choice here. The remaining distance is challenging; she would never reach the finish with this injury. Joe joins us briefly, and we coordinate.
The drop bag is quickly emptied and reorganized. I swap the battery of the Petzl Nao RL, which still had charge, but I want to avoid carrying unnecessary weight—so it goes back into the drop bag. A bag of Krupuk (shrimp chips) is my secret weapon. The warm food section is skipped to save time, a decision that will cost me later.
Joe changes layers next to me and, as expected, decides to continue at his own pace. Totally understandable; after five days running together in the Wadi Rum desert race, we know there are no hard feelings. From now on, we are likely running alone—a tough proposition at night over such distances. I quickly leave AS 2, drop off my sealed bag, and plunge back into the night: solo mode engaged.
The walking break is short; Christine ends it herself, and we continue. At kilometer 77, we reach the Gröthögarna Nature Reserve, the northern tip of the Bjäre Peninsula. For almost 4 kilometers, the trail passes through a very sandy and especially wet section. Pasture fences, thorn bushes, swampy pits, wobbly boards, and other obstacles definitely make running here anything but boring. The pasture gates are starting to get on our nerves. Some prankster had a creative phase and altered the locks on one or two of them. So there you stand, trying to solve the puzzle as quickly as possible—without pinching your fingers.
Also frequently “enjoyed” (NOT) are the cattle ladders, where you get into the next pasture without a gate, but have to climb 3–4 wooden steps up and down on the other side. Normally child’s play, but with wet conditions, urgency, and tired legs, moving from one ladder to the next becomes increasingly unwelcome.
We leave Gröthögarna with another walking session. In summer, I’ve seen a few seals at the water; today, only a few extremely bored sheep were hanging around. No cheering for us—they aren’t even worth turning their heads. The cows along the way to the next and last aid station, Hovs Hallar (km 83), behave similarly. Swedish cows are really chilled and not curious at all; our Bavarian cows could take a lesson from them.
The Last Checkpoint at Hovs Hallar – Light and Shadow in the Team
In the final climb to Hovs Hallar, a plateau on the cliffs with a huge parking lot and restaurant, our extra energy is again clearly visible. Christine’s boyfriend stands in the ascent cheering us on; in English, he also tells me that we are the only runners here not walking. At the top, it’s only 50 meters to the rather large aid station, including toilets and a small buffet. Even better, Lotte and Daniel are there to greet us. These two martyrs can already sense that we’ve been through “zombieland” a few times and suffered. We certainly don’t look fresh anymore. Since my eye still isn’t okay, I ask Lotte if she can see anything unusual or if my eyelid looks weird. She can’t see anything. Damn, what’s going on?
Still, the support gives us extra motivation points for the next steep climb, which also marks the beginning of the single-trail forest section—likely muddy and slippery.
My Squeezy Energy powder is completely used up. I could have carried more in my backpack, but where would it lead? So I had planned one last full refill of both flasks with Näak Energy Drink—a fatal mistake, as I would realize later—too late.
The buffet looks nice, with sandwiches, sweets, pickles, and banana halves—plus cola. I can’t bring myself to eat more than a banana and cola, another stupid mistake. I just want to finish now—only 21 kilometers left, a distance I know very well, almost standard for the past few months. A glance at Christine, she just nods, and we continue across the parking lot to the farthest corner, where the cliff we have to climb is already visible.
The entire route feels completely familiar to me again from the summer, even more so in daylight than at night. This should make all the 100-mile races much easier, I think, as we finish the cliff section and head toward the forest. What a stupid idea! Logically correct, perhaps—but in this situation, with slowly really heavy legs and totally sleep-deprived, this thought can only come from the “brain-fog” department. Ideas like this come 24 hours after such a race, not during it.
I quickly explain to Christine what lies ahead. Last year, her attempt ended in a DNF, so she doesn’t know the course. And now I get to see the other side of my new friendship—the Single-Trail Queen! How light-footed she is, dancing ahead of me on the narrow, exposed trails with lots of muddy sections. You can immediately see that she’s in her element. I can barely keep up; she flits along the trail, passing runner after runner. Every step is precise, up and down. Occasionally, she looks back to check if I’m still there, while I stumble through the underbrush, now seriously considering that this blur in my eye might be dangerously impairing me. Spatial vision would be extremely helpful right now. Instead, my right visual field is like looking through frosted glass.
In no time, we master the single trails and gain some positions, thanks to Christine and her mountain-goat skills. Now we head downhill again, and two runners pass us. That’s on me, because I’m too cautious going downhill and desperately want to avoid a third fall. At the moment, I have to call myself the brake. Meanwhile, my stomach has switched to full-wash mode, which I blame on the Näak energy drink. I’ve never had this with Squeezy, no matter the quantity or concentration. Maybe I’m wrong, but I think that’s the cause.
By now, we’ve run down the mountain on asphalt, and the mountain goat is really picking up speed. I’ve figured out why: her boyfriend told her earlier that she is leading her age group (50–54). That’s also my age group, but since my plan to reach the podium is essentially over, she still has every chance. I don’t want to ruin that for her, so I go along. On a country road, we move quickly with a pace of 5:10. The pace isn’t the problem—the strength is there. Whether it’s wise given the last mountain and the remaining 16 kilometers is questionable. My decision is made for me by my stomach—and now also by my intestines. Basically, I want to stop immediately, but I think about how to handle it with Christine and whether to push through with an uncertain outcome.
Halfway along the 2.5 kilometers between the two mountains, I decide to stop briefly and at least water a tree. Christine runs 50 meters further, then notices something’s wrong, stops, and looks back. I call out to her from the bushes, telling her to just keep running and take her podium spot; I’ll catch up. I know I won’t be able to catch her if she keeps going. Christine yells back—she won’t do that. I shout that it’s all okay and I don’t blame her at all, not knowing how long my pain will take to subside. She replies that it doesn’t matter—she’ll wait as long as it takes. Phew! What can you say? The woman has nerves of steel. Would I sacrifice my podium for someone else who isn’t dying, just has a stomach problem? Yes, I would, but it might take me 5 more seconds to answer. She didn’t even hesitate. That moment changes the situation completely. The “tree watering” fails, the acute pain eases slightly, and I decide not to hold the traveler back any longer.
We now head a bit more slowly to the start of the last mountain. The brief speed offensive is over. We walk the climb. In summer, I ran this path without issue; now it’s difficult. Christine’s breathing is also a bit strained, I think. I’m not entirely sure—maybe she’s just being considerate of me.
Just before reaching the summit, a girl from an age group under 30, roughly 20–24, passes us. That prompts us to stop walking—we don’t want to become easy prey. Then Christine’s boyfriend appears again, motivating her to push through the last stretch. I don’t understand all of it, yet somehow I do. Three hundred meters later, Lotte suddenly appears, filming with her smartphone as she runs a small additional ascent beside us. At the top, Daniel and Hejat are also there. “From here, it’s only downhill!” we hear—they’re wrong, I know. The following forest trail mostly goes down, but partially also climbs. You can barely see that on the profile, but it’s good to know.
With this final mental boost, we turn toward the last single-trail section in the forest, and the wild ride begins…
Used Equipment / Gear
Clothing
Jacket and pants: Dynafit
Rain jacket: TNF (The North Face)
1st/2nd layer: Gore and UYN
Underwear: UYN
Socks: Injinji
Calf sleeves: CEP
Cap/Buff: Gore
Shoes: Hoka
Nutrition
Squeezy Energy Drink
Squeezy Energy Bar
Squeezy Salt Tabs
Squeezy 100% Pure Amino
Näak Energy Drink
Equipment
Backpack: Black Diamond
Lights: 2× Petzl
Flasks: Salomon
Powerbank: Nitecore
Watch: Garmin
Smartphone: Google
Other
Insurance: ITRA
Autor: Ingo Kruck
Webseite: https://thruelements.com/
Instagram: @thruelements
YouTube: @thruelements
Blog: thruelements.com
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